Zinburger

Fox restaurant Zinburger, on River and Campbell, has a name that's, presumably, meant to imply a blending between wine (Zinfandel) and the delectable food it serves, hamburgers. What I think of instead of the wine reference is "sin," and this is a good thing. Sinburger is perhaps more apt.

The menu sticks to a few things: burgers (including turkey and veggie), salads, sides (which come separately), gourmet-flavor shakes, and wine. They have a full bar as well.

At first, the prices seem a tad steep for Tucson--$8-$14 for a burger, $5 or $6 for a side--but it's incredibly worth it. The sides are easily large enough servings for two or three people to split, and their burgers make a much better meal than what you could get for the same price at places like Chili's.

Ohh, the burgers. They recommend them served medium (a sin in and of itself), but I have have indulged in a few medium rares that were delectable. The beef is unbelievably tasty and tender, and with toppings like Manchego and wild mushrooms, utterly perfect. If I'm being frugal and don't get too caught up in the deliciousness of the thing, it'll easily serve for lunch the next day. I also strongly recommend the sweet potato fries: they're thick enough that you can still taste the potato, which for some reason is rare.

The last couple of times we've been there, Colin and I have tried the most expensive wine on the list; first it was the Baileyana Fox Block Six, and most recently the Truchard Fox Block Seven, both Pinot Noirs. It appears that Regan, whomever he is, gets vineyards to create special vintages just for the Fox restaurants, and they are unavailable anywhere else. Happy hour, happily, means that glasses and bottles of wine are half off, so that's how we've managed to justify the splurge. Again, worth it.

The decor is clever: the curving west wall is covered in a life-size mural of cows grazing on bright green grass, with another wall entirely hung with silver-framed mirrors which reflect the light of the scattered tea-lights nicely. The modern chairs are plastic but of good design, so they echo the upscale burger joint theme, and the tables are a mix of high-tops and low. There's also patio seating with a large fireplace and heat lamps. My favorite design choice is in the girl's restroom: the wall is papered in a life-size photograph of a group of paparazzi, cameras covering their faces and flashbulbs going off, which is then reflected in the mirrored wall on the other side. It's both unsettling and amusing, which is about how I feel looking at pictures of cows while I eat a burger.

The service, while not stellar, still tends toward the "competent" end. They do have a fondness for hiring hostesses based on how they look in short white pleated skirts or short shorts instead of looking for skill. However, our (male) waiter, when we asked a couple questions about the Fox Block Seven, gave us a fabulous run-down of how and where it was made, without it sounding like a prepared speech, so they earn some points for that.

One major drawback--and it's one shared with many a trendy restaurant--is that they don't take reservations or call-aheads. The other is that the parking is a bitch. Get there during happy hour (4-6 daily), and you'll avoid the rush and be able to indulge in wine twice the quality of what you'd normally choose, allowing you to feel sinful without the guilty aftertaste.

(I tried to take pictures with my camera phone, but the lighting was too low. Next time, hopefully!)